After you make the decision to attempt something as major as conquering the highest peak in Africa, you actually mark the beginning of a life-changing journey, which can last anywhere from 3 months to over 3 years. Now, I am fully aware that not many people have the desire to give up personal hygiene, and their comfortable bed, to literally climb a mountain. So, as I write about climbing Mount Kilimanjaro, I equate it to achieving any other goal that you may have so that it is more relatable and so that everyone can take something away from it. As you delve deeper into the words, you will see how climbing this mountain for me can be exactly the same as achieving a dream for you.
If you have not yet read the post about how climbing Mount Kilimanjaro changed my life, check it out here: A JOURNEY FROM MEDIOCRE EXISTANCE TO MASTERFUL LIVING
Pre Day 0
There are various routes for the trek to the summit of Mount Kilimanjaro, each of which have their own starting points. Some are shorter and steeper, while some are longer and more gradual, some are more clearly defined and well-traversed, some start at a higher altitude, some are more technical and challenging than others and some are more scenic than others. So, depending on your level of fitness, climbing experience and number of days you have available to reach the summit, bearing in mind that all the routes eventually reach the same point, you can select the one that is best suited for you and that gives you the greatest chance of success.
Since I had not been exposed to extreme altitudes or serious mountaineering before, I decided to select the Machame route, which is one of the longer ones, but does not require much technical climbing, and it is also one of the most scenic routes up the mountain. This choice allowed my body sufficient time to adapt to the changing environments and reduced oxygen levels, while also enabled me to appreciate and enjoy the natural beauty of the mountain and it’s surrounds.
When the day came for me to get on a plane to Tanzania, for people on the outside, looking in, it may have seemed like the journey hadn’t even begun yet; but for me and my close family and friends, we knew this was the culmination of months of training and physical and mental preparation. Letting go of any negative thoughts and energy, and staying focused, I said my goodbyes and set off on the final and most important part of the journey to achieve my goal, even though I had not yet set foot on Mount Kilimanjaro!
Day 0 – Mt Meru Hotel
The evening I arrived at Mt Meru Hotel in Arusha, Tanzania, I received a warm welcome by the coordinator, who also gave me a ‘debriefing’ to make sure I was all set. She reassured me that my safety was the primary concern and that I have nothing to worry about and should just focus on the trek and have a fantastic adventure. These words meant more to me than she will ever know because, prior to arriving in Tanzania, I was mostly doing my own training and preparation, and I never really sought advise from anyone. But now, it felt like a huge load was lifted off me knowing that I had a dedicated team and experienced guide to help me reach my goal. Always remember that it is never too early, or too late, to seek the guidance or advice from someone who knows the goal better than you do. Ego is one of the most dangerous qualities to have and can be the defining factor that keeps you from your dream.
That night I could hardly contain my excitement but forced myself to get some shut eye and I mentally prepared for the big, final push.
Day 1 – Machame Gate (1490 m) to Machame Camp (2980 m)
Hiking time: 7 hours. Distance: Approximately 18 kilometers. Habitat: Montane forest.
On the 2nd of August 2017 I woke up before my alarm and had my last shower for the week. Dressed in my best hiking gear, we drove to the Kilimanjaro Park Gate. As we arrived and did the mandatory paperwork and indemnity signing, my excitement turned to nervousness. But after meeting the lead guide and his exceptional team who would support me with achieving my summit goal over the next 7 days, the nervousness faded as quickly as it came, and I was soon on my way, singing The Kilimanjaro Song!
Before we have time to get to know the porters in our team, they were speeding ahead of us, each of them carrying 2 (or sometimes 3) times more weight than I was, to reach the first camp, set up our tents and kitchen, and begin preparing our delicious meals. These guys were a fundamental part of the team that was instrumental to my summit.
And, even though they didn’t have the fancy hiking boots or fluffy down jackets that I had, never once did I see them without a smile on their face, nor did I ever hear them complain. It is no understatement that my success would never have been possible without them.
Day 2 – Machame Camp (2980 m) to Shira Camp (3840 m)
Hiking time: 6 hours. Distance: Approximately 9 kilometers. Habitat: Moorland.
Our walking through the damp, shaded jungle eventually turned into being exposed to the intense sunlight, as our environment changed from forest to moorland. From this point onward, we were above the clouds and would only occasionally get a glimpse of the world beneath us when there was a clearing in the clouds. For me, this was unchartered territory; the highest altitude I had ever experienced. I could notice my pulse rate quicken as my heart strained to circulate the oxygen-starved air I needed to fuel my body. Even at this point, when my adrenaline-fueled mind wanted to forge ahead and run up the mountain, the more experienced guide held me back and told me I’ll thank him later. “Pole Pole”, which means “go slow” in Swahili, was their mantra all the way up the mountain since it was the most important way to avoid altitude sickness.
Another amazing experience was being able to see just the top of Mt Meru (the second highest peak in Tanzania) above the clouds in the distance.
Day 3 – Shira Camp (3840 m) to Lava Tower (4630 m) to Barranco Camp (3950 m)
Hiking time: 7 hours. Distance: Approximately 15 kilometers. Habitat: Semi-desert.
Also known as the acclimatization day, the third day demanded that we climb almost 1000 m in altitude only to descend 500 m to our next camp. One of the advantages of the Machame route is that is allows the trekker to “climb high and sleep low”, which enables the body to better adjust to the changing climate and air conditions, ultimately increasing one’s chance of summit success.
So, sometimes when you are working towards something, and it may seem that you are moving further away from your goal, don’t be disheartened or discouraged because that could be exactly what your body, or your mind, needs to better prepare for and achieve the final goal. Always remember that when you really want to achieve something, the entire universe conspires to help you get there; there may be a bigger plan than you are not aware of at the time.
Day 4 – Barranco Camp (3950 m) to Karanga Camp (3950 m)
Hiking time: 4-5 hours. Distance: Approximately 5 kilometers. Habitat: Alpine desert.
Even though the fourth day was only about 5 kilometers in distance, it was definitely the most technically challenging. A section of the trek known to climbers as The Barranco Wall saw us stowing away our hiking poles to free our hands so we could do some rock scrambling to get up. A particular area of note on the barranco wall is known as the kissing corner, that got its name because the ledge to walk across is so narrow that we had to almost be kissing the wall to get past it.
The Barranco Wall caused a severe bottleneck on the path to the next camp. Since there were so many porters and other climbers trying to get up, we could do nothing but be patient and allow the traffic to flow as it was. Any unnecessary rush or impatience may have resulted in an injury (to me or others), which could have caused much longer delays, or possibly even prevented us from reaching the goal altogether. This was a great example to explain that, no matter how badly you want to reach your dreams, it is never okay to step on others or put someone else at risk to get there.
From this day onward, the environment was now devoid of all colour, life and movement (apart from the other trekkers, of course).
Day 5 – Karanga Camp (3950 m) to Barafu Hut (4600 m)
Hiking time: 2-3 hours. Distance: Approximately 4 kilometers Habitat: Alpine desert.
The fifth day was the shortest in terms of duration and distance, but definitely not the easiest. Of the four kilometers we walked, every step of the way was uphill. And, may I remind you, this altitude is considered extreme, and the air was significantly thinner than it was 4 days ago. Every step was an effort, and even chewing on my energy bar seemed to expend more energy than it gave me!
As I struggled to breathe and chew at the same time, I watched in amazement as the porters, who had reached Barafu Hut and offloaded their bags and equipment, were descending once again to collect extra water for drinking and cooking, since this was the last place that we could access it until after our summit.
I only arrived at Barafu Hut (also known as Mt Kili Base Camp) around lunch time. By that time, the porters had already somehow set up camp and had a scrumptious meal ready and waiting for me. Despite the single-digit temperatures and the harsh terrain, I was eager, as always, to explore. After an early dinner, I was sent to my tent to get some sleep and was told that I should conserve every bit of energy because I’m going to need all the strength I can get when we set off for our summit attempt.
Day 6 – Barafu Hut (4600 m) to Uhuru Peak (5895 m) to Mweka Camp (3100 m)
Hiking time: 8 hours to reach Uhuru Peak, 7-8 hours to descend to Mweka Camp. Distance: Approximately 7 kilometer ascent and 23 kilometer descent. Habitat: Stone scree and ice-capped summit.
This day marked the most physically and mentally challenging and demanding day of my entire life (so far). I was awoken at around midnight by an eager guide and the smell of ginger tea, which I had grown so used to in the past few days. After scoffing down a few biscuits and chocolates for energy, we set off into the darkness; the only light coming from our LED headlamps and the God given full moon.
Now, as if walking in the dark wasn’t challenging enough, up until this point, we were walking on primarily solid ground, which meant that every step forward was an actual step forward. However, between Barafu Hut and the summit, the ground feels almost fluid since it is covered with stone scree, which is like sand granules, only larger; this meant that every step forward isn’t actually a full step forward because you end up sinking into the loose ground (you can imagine trying to climb up a steep sand bank or dune).
After being told by the guide for more than 7 hours that we were “almost there”, we reached Stella Point, which is the actual marker to indicate that you are, in fact, almost at the top. From here to the summit, there is only one path, the final kilometer. The various routes that had different start points all converged to get here. So, while everyone was now the same 1 kilometer away from the goal, they were all at different distances away from their starting points and had all been on the mountain for different durations of time.
Charging my body once again with the adrenaline and excitement of knowing I’m just an hour away from achieving my goal, we continued. And when we eventually reached the top, I was completely overcome by emotion. The exhaustion, the excitement, the relief and the unexplainable beauty of the moment, all just consumed me. A goal I’ve been working (and walking) towards for months and now I’m standing on top of it. I took the mandatory selfie by the Congratulations sign, and a few more pictures from every other angle I could, but in less than 20 minutes of being at the summit, I get the signal from the guide that it’s time to head back down.
Day 7 – Mweka Camp (3100 m) to Mweka Gate (1980 m)
Hiking time: 3 hours. Distance: Approximately 15 kilometers. Habitat: Forest.
Still high on the energy and excitement of having summitted the highest peak in Africa, my sunburnt lips, aching legs, broken toenail, greasy hair and depleted phone battery all seemed so insignificant in the bigger scheme of things. We saw ourselves traversing through the familiar environments back down the mountain, much faster than we came.
The feeling of appreciation and gratitude that I made it up and down safely was amplified when two groups of porters rushed past us wheeling a barely conscious person down the mountain on a trolley-type stretcher. An unforgettable moment that reminded me that achieving the goal (or not achieving the goal) is not actually the end, and should, therefore, not be the only thing we think about. The journey and the preparation, as well as what happens after the achievement, are much more important to invest our time, energy and excitement in. Because there will always be another mountain to climb or another goal to achieve.
Post Day 7
At the end of the day, it doesn’t matter which route you had to take to achieve your goal or if others were able to finish faster or if they appeared to have certain advantages that you didn’t. The important thing to remember is not to judge anyone (including yourself), because even though people may have the same destination or end goal, everyone is on their own journey, with their own starting point, own path, own priorities, own experiences and their own challenges and difficulties.
So, by the grace of the Supreme, I summitted Mount Kilimanjaro; I achieved my goal. I went there, took the selfie and got the t-shirt. But let’s say, hypothetically, what if I didn’t? What if I (or you) went on this 8-month long journey only to not achieve your goal?
The important thing to always remember is that, you will always be closer to the goal than you were 8 months ago, and as long as you didn’t push yourself further than you were able, and if you still have a beating heart in your chest, the dream of achieving the goal is still possible. Don’t give up. Whatever your ‘mountain’ or goal in life is, remember to enjoy the journey, because when you do, the chances of you achieving the goal are much more favorable.